- Active Oil
- INCI: Sambucus Nigra (Elderberry) Oil
- Comedogenicity: 1-2
- Composition: Linoleic acid (up to approx. 42 %), α linolenic acid (up to approx. 36 %), oleic acid (up to approx. 13 %), palmitic acid (up to approx. 7 %), stearic acid (up to approx. 2 %), phytosterols.
- Cosmetic use: Oily, blemished, sensitive skin; acne.
The black elderberry is a strong branching bush or tree up to 11 m tall. Its stem leaves are unevenly pinnate, about 30 cm long and have about 5 single leaves. From May to July, the bush blooms with many white or slightly yellowish, five-petaled flowers with a fruity scent. Between August and September the initially red and then black berries begin to ripen. They contain a burgundy red juice and 3 oily seeds each. The seeds contain up to 30 % oil with mostly polyunsaturated fatty acids.
Extraction of Elderberry Seed Oil
The greenish-yellow to green elder seed oil is usually obtained by cold pressing the seeds of the black elderberry. However, the oil is also often obtained as a by-product of elderberry juice production by pressing the left over pomace (press residue) containing more than 10 % oil. The seeds can be enzymatically extracted by crushing the elderberries in water and adding pectinase. After 2-3 days, the skin and flesh of the berries are completely degraded. The remaining seeds can then be cleaned with water and dried.
Cosmetic use of Elderberry Seed Oil
Due to the high proportion of α-linolenic acid and phytosterols, elder seed oil has an anti-inflammatory and calming effect and is therefore particularly suitable for sensitive, neurodermitic and blemished skin. Thanks to its high content of unsaturated fatty acids, it is a light oil with a low melting point that is not heavy on the skin. The oil does not leave an oily film and thus creates non film-forming emulsions, which are well suited for the care of oily and blemished skin. The skin surface is protected and strengthened by the oil and becomes soft and elastic.